Expert’s Corner
Why Professional Colour Theory Is the Backbone of Beautiful PMU
There is a very thin line between having a perfect natural enhancement versus a clinically based disaster when it comes to Permanent Makeup (PMU). Often, that line is dependent on how well the artist understands professional colour theory.
Lots of people think of PMU as simply “matching a pencil to the skin”, but true professionals know this process is much deeper than that. It is a combination of the science of pigments, light, and biology.
ibrow know and feel that education is the key to achieving your highest potential. To put some perspective on the issues at stake, Dr Gunjan Shah, the PMU pioneer of India, a world-renowned Dermatologist-Cosmetologist and the Founder of ibrow Academy and learn why professional colour theory will always serve as the foundation for excellent, aesthetically pleasing results.
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The Science Behind the Shades of Professional Colour Theory
When selecting your pigment as a new tech, most people get stuck on the client’s hair colour. The problem is that PMU is not like doing traditional cosmetic applications. It is placed into the skin layer (epidermis). Therefore, the pigment will only be one part of how the final healed product will appear on the client. As the colour repair process progresses, the texture and structure of the client’s skin will play a significant role in how the pigment appears throughout healing.
Dr Gunjan Shah provides this analogy: “You don’t paint a canvas with a brush; you are putting paint onto a living, breathing organ.” If you do not understand how various shades of blue and red on the skin (in addition to the above) will interact with the pigment over time, you are not doing PMU; you are only guessing at what colour will emerge.
If the artist/technician does not have a thorough understanding of Professional Colour Theory, an artist could start off with a relatively accurate representation of a “dark brown” eyebrow and by the time it heals, it appears as an ashy grey or a muddy orange.
Further, a true artist can distinguish what separates a true artist from a technician: an artist should know, at a fundamental level, how the individual will use the colours on the colour wheel, be it their undertones (cool, warm, or neutral).
Also Read: Shelf Life of Permanent Makeup Pigments and Proper Storage Tips
Why There Are No “Universal” Pigments
Many PMU artists in India find themselves in a position where they need to work with pigments designed for Caucasian skin; this is where Dr Gunjan Shah saw a need for more research and development towards a specialised line specifically for ibrow.
As Dr Gunjan Shah says:
“A pigment that is beautiful on a cool skin tone can look like something very different to Indian and South Asian skin, which has rich, warm undertones.”
If the professional uses colour theory, they can neutralise any unwanted tones before they occur. For example, if you used a warm pigment to neutralise the cool blue tinge in darker skin, the original colour will remain.
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The professional uses colour theory not only for the client’s immediate appearance upon leaving the clinic, but also for how they look two years later. The pigment will break down at different rates due to the chemical composition of its constituent elements. The way both (Inorganic and Organic) react to UV and the immune system is very different; plus, with professional training, the PMU artist can “predict the future” of the shade to ensure it fades naturally rather than changing to an unnatural colour.
Also Read: Common Mistakes in Eyebrow PMU and How to Avoid Them
Become A Successful Colour Science Expert with ibrow Academy
When we teach our students, we teach them the “why” behind every drop of pigment we use on our clients. The course Colour Science in Permanent Makeup, created by Dr Gunjan Shah, goes deep into colour science; what Hue, Saturation, and Skin Chemistry will do for the final results of your work.
As Dr Shah tells her students all the time:
“ibrow isn’t the product line, it is who you are as a PMU artist. Your understanding of colour will be your greatest tool. It will create trust with your clients and keep them coming back.”
Are you ready to take your PMU skills to the next level? Check out our professional liquid pigments and sign up for one of our upcoming seminars on mastering the art of Colour (permanent makeup).
